Anybody use a straight razor?

Sculpt

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Anybody use a straight razor?

That would be the least expensive, and least waste -- that is if you don't recycle your safety razors -- which by the way, does anyone recycle their razors? How so?

[video=youtube;o_Q4GWfdgfk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_Q4GWfdgfk[/video]
 
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I could never use one, I'm not steady enough to do it without slicing myself. I've had barbers use them to clean up after a haircut and it's awesome. I'd love to use one but I just can't.
 

dweebs19

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I personally don't use it, but my barber uses it on me every time I go in for my haircut and shave
 

Hawkeye OG

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I just stopped shaving my face and it's working out well
 

ursamajor

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Try a shavette first. Then go for a legit straight razor.


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Crystallas

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I tried one for a while. Too much time commitment. Still have my straight razor, and IMO, nothing beats it for that close shave in the nooks under your nose.

Prefer the DE safety. IMO best overall shaving setup and still enough control to shave under the neck. price:performance:convenience:maintenance One handle for life with just a tiny bit of research.

Now the blades, IDK what to do with them in the beginning. First few I taped together with duct tape and chucked 'em. Now I have about 50 in a sharps container and have been told that most pharmacies will take them (no clue if they GAF or actually have a scrap recycling deal). Sharps containers tho, very useful thing to have anyways. People are worried about needles and razors, but every so often you run into some small metal part that breaks with just as much of a handling concern tossing it into a regular trash. I've had Mach3 blades crush and bend, make holes in trash bags, so even those are just *more* waste IMO.
 

modo

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Technically you are not supposed to recycle razor blades.

Amazon actually sells a razor blade disposal container.
 

Omeletpants

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I would like to practice with a straight razor on Scoot
 

ShiftyDevil

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I do DE Safety razor. Definitely an upgrade from the mach whatever I used to use.
 

ursamajor

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I tried one for a while. Too much time commitment. Still have my straight razor, and IMO, nothing beats it for that close shave in the nooks under your nose.

Prefer the DE safety. IMO best overall shaving setup and still enough control to shave under the neck. price:performance:convenience:maintenance One handle for life with just a tiny bit of research.

Now the blades, IDK what to do with them in the beginning. First few I taped together with duct tape and chucked 'em. Now I have about 50 in a sharps container and have been told that most pharmacies will take them (no clue if they GAF or actually have a scrap recycling deal). Sharps containers tho, very useful thing to have anyways. People are worried about needles and razors, but every so often you run into some small metal part that breaks with just as much of a handling concern tossing it into a regular trash. I've had Mach3 blades crush and bend, make holes in trash bags, so even those are just *more* waste IMO.

I agree. I do like a straight razor for edge work, but they require a lot of maintenance.

That’s why I primarily shave with a double edge safety razor, and use a shavette in lieu of a straight razor, the times I need one.

I go for vintage Gillettes. Even my wife uses a Super Adjustable 109 (AKA “Black Beauty) with Gold Plating.

I have a Short Handle Super Adjustable, a Ball End Tech (made in the 40’s before Gillette moved to Zamak caps) and a pristine, restored, rhodium plated Gillette Slim Adjustable.

The Super Adjustable is now my daily driver, though I used the Tech for years. Plan on sending the Tech in for rhodium plating eventually.

Can’t stand Merkurs and virtually all modern safety razors. If they contain ANY Zamak, you can have it. Simply NOT worthy of ownership imho.


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Spunky Porkstacker

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I agree. I do like a straight razor for edge work, but they require a lot of maintenance.

That’s why I primarily shave with a double edge safety razor, and use a shavette in lieu of a straight razor, the times I need one.

I go for vintage Gillettes. Even my wife uses a Super Adjustable 109 (AKA “Black Beauty) with Gold Plating.

I have a Short Handle Super Adjustable, a Ball End Tech (made in the 40’s before Gillette moved to Zamak caps) and a pristine, restored, rhodium plated Gillette Slim Adjustable.

The Super Adjustable is now my daily driver, though I used the Tech for years. Plan on sending the Tech in for rhodium plating eventually.

Can’t stand Merkurs and virtually all modern safety razors. If they contain ANY Zamak, you can have it. Simply NOT worthy of ownership imho.


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Holy ****, that's a break down of safety razors.
 

Burque

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I agree. I do like a straight razor for edge work, but they require a lot of maintenance.

That’s why I primarily shave with a double edge safety razor, and use a shavette in lieu of a straight razor, the times I need one.

I go for vintage Gillettes. Even my wife uses a Super Adjustable 109 (AKA “Black Beauty) with Gold Plating.

I have a Short Handle Super Adjustable, a Ball End Tech (made in the 40’s before Gillette moved to Zamak caps) and a pristine, restored, rhodium plated Gillette Slim Adjustable.

The Super Adjustable is now my daily driver, though I used the Tech for years. Plan on sending the Tech in for rhodium plating eventually.

Can’t stand Merkurs and virtually all modern safety razors. If they contain ANY Zamak, you can have it. Simply NOT worthy of ownership imho.


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Damn, I havent ever spent that much time thinking about shaving.

I was gifted a nice straight razor kit, but I havent ever used it. I am not sure that I even want to get into it to shave the little bits around my beard that I clean up.
 

ruprecht

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No because it's not 1892
 

number51

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I tried one for a while. Too much time commitment. Still have my straight razor, and IMO, nothing beats it for that close shave in the nooks under your nose.

Prefer the DE safety. IMO best overall shaving setup and still enough control to shave under the neck. price:performance:convenience:maintenance One handle for life with just a tiny bit of research.

Now the blades, IDK what to do with them in the beginning. First few I taped together with duct tape and chucked 'em. Now I have about 50 in a sharps container and have been told that most pharmacies will take them (no clue if they GAF or actually have a scrap recycling deal). Sharps containers tho, very useful thing to have anyways. People are worried about needles and razors, but every so often you run into some small metal part that breaks with just as much of a handling concern tossing it into a regular trash. I've had Mach3 blades crush and bend, make holes in trash bags, so even those are just *more* waste IMO.

I agree. I do like a straight razor for edge work, but they require a lot of maintenance.

That’s why I primarily shave with a double edge safety razor, and use a shavette in lieu of a straight razor, the times I need one.

I go for vintage Gillettes. Even my wife uses a Super Adjustable 109 (AKA “Black Beauty) with Gold Plating.

I have a Short Handle Super Adjustable, a Ball End Tech (made in the 40’s before Gillette moved to Zamak caps) and a pristine, restored, rhodium plated Gillette Slim Adjustable.

The Super Adjustable is now my daily driver, though I used the Tech for years. Plan on sending the Tech in for rhodium plating eventually.

Can’t stand Merkurs and virtually all modern safety razors. If they contain ANY Zamak, you can have it. Simply NOT worthy of ownership imho.


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The parts of a straight razor and their function are described as follows: The narrow end of the blade rotates on a pin called the pivot, between two protective pieces called the scales or handle. The upward curved metal end of the narrow part of the blade beyond the pivot is called the tang and acts as a lever to help raise the blade from the handle. One or two fingers resting on the tang also help stabilize the blade while shaving. The narrow support piece between the tang and the main blade is called the shank, but this reference is often avoided because it can be confusing since the shank is also referred to as tang. The shank sometimes features decorations and the stamp of the brand. The top side and the underside of the shank can sometimes exhibit indentations known as fluting, or jimps for a more secure grip. The curved lower part of the main blade from the shank to the cutting edge is called the shoulder. The point where the shoulder joins the cutting edge is called the heel. The endpoint of the cutting edge at the front of the blade, opposite to the heel, is called the toe.

A thick strip of metal running transversely at the junction where the main blade attaches to the shank is called the stabiliser. The stabiliser can be double, single, or can be absent in some razor models. The first stabiliser is usually very narrow and thicker and runs at the shank-to-blade junction, covering the shank and just spilling over to the shoulder. The second stabiliser can be distinguished since it is considerably wider and narrower, appearing after the first stabiliser and running lower into the shoulder.

The arched, non-cutting top of the blade is called the back or the spine while the cutting part of the blade opposite the back is called the cutting edge. Finally the other free end of the blade, at the opposite end of the tang, is called the point and, sometimes, the head or the nose.
A Solingen straight razor with a somewhat rounded French point, ​1⁄2 hollow ground 16 mm (5⁄8 in) blade and single stabiliser in a three pin handle configuration. The middle pin adds stability and rigidity to the handle

There are usually two, but sometimes three, pins in the handle. The middle pin, if present, is plastic coated and is called the centre plug. Its function is to stabilise the sides of the handle so that they cannot be squeezed in the middle and acts as a bridge between them. When folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage, and the user is protected from accidental injury. During folding, the back of the blade, being thick and normally with a curved cross-section, acts as a natural stopper and prevents further rotation of the blade out of the handle from the other side. The frictional force between the scales and the tang applied about the pivot is called the Tension and it determines how freely the blade rotates about the point of rotation. A proper amount of tension should be present, for safety reasons, to ensure that the blade does not spin freely when opening or closing.
 

ursamajor

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The parts of a straight razor and their function are described as follows: The narrow end of the blade rotates on a pin called the pivot, between two protective pieces called the scales or handle. The upward curved metal end of the narrow part of the blade beyond the pivot is called the tang and acts as a lever to help raise the blade from the handle. One or two fingers resting on the tang also help stabilize the blade while shaving. The narrow support piece between the tang and the main blade is called the shank, but this reference is often avoided because it can be confusing since the shank is also referred to as tang. The shank sometimes features decorations and the stamp of the brand. The top side and the underside of the shank can sometimes exhibit indentations known as fluting, or jimps for a more secure grip. The curved lower part of the main blade from the shank to the cutting edge is called the shoulder. The point where the shoulder joins the cutting edge is called the heel. The endpoint of the cutting edge at the front of the blade, opposite to the heel, is called the toe.

A thick strip of metal running transversely at the junction where the main blade attaches to the shank is called the stabiliser. The stabiliser can be double, single, or can be absent in some razor models. The first stabiliser is usually very narrow and thicker and runs at the shank-to-blade junction, covering the shank and just spilling over to the shoulder. The second stabiliser can be distinguished since it is considerably wider and narrower, appearing after the first stabiliser and running lower into the shoulder.

The arched, non-cutting top of the blade is called the back or the spine while the cutting part of the blade opposite the back is called the cutting edge. Finally the other free end of the blade, at the opposite end of the tang, is called the point and, sometimes, the head or the nose.
A Solingen straight razor with a somewhat rounded French point, ​1⁄2 hollow ground 16 mm (5⁄8 in) blade and single stabiliser in a three pin handle configuration. The middle pin adds stability and rigidity to the handle

There are usually two, but sometimes three, pins in the handle. The middle pin, if present, is plastic coated and is called the centre plug. Its function is to stabilise the sides of the handle so that they cannot be squeezed in the middle and acts as a bridge between them. When folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage, and the user is protected from accidental injury. During folding, the back of the blade, being thick and normally with a curved cross-section, acts as a natural stopper and prevents further rotation of the blade out of the handle from the other side. The frictional force between the scales and the tang applied about the pivot is called the Tension and it determines how freely the blade rotates about the point of rotation. A proper amount of tension should be present, for safety reasons, to ensure that the blade does not spin freely when opening or closing.

058de63dbcc4ee8f3665420338a09da5.gif




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Burque

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Oh grate. Anyone wanna learn about trains?

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