Dumbass Question

supraman

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How do you properly execute a brake check? Do you just hit the brakes hard enough to turn on the brake lights or do you give them a quick stab and get back on the gas?
 

Tater

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It depends on how pissed off you are.

I've done both.
 

supraman

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It depends on how pissed off you are.

I've done both.



I just hate someone riding my bumper, Florida drivers suck (not saying I am any better) but yeah I hate when people are on my ass.
 

LordKOTL

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It depends on how far up on my ass they are. If I can't see their headlights in my rearview mirror I will add a little bit of brake as well as light to add the motion panic factor into everything.



If it's hard to see their face , I'll just add the lights. Low collision deductable or not, I'd hate to be rear-ended.



What I have done, though, is for the really impationed ass-riding drivers on rural roads, I'll wait for a double-yellow line, and then slow from 50+ to about 25.



Washington--I'll only keep this up until another car is blocked (Washington law states if you back up 5 more more cars on a two lane road you MUST pull over at the earliest safest opportunity and let them pass.



Oregon has no such law, and seeing a guy in a riced-out Civic having an aneurism for riding my ass, then driving 5 of 10 miles at 25 mph, whipping around me only to be nailed by the OSP 2 miles down the road was priceless.



Yes, I'm an asshole and I'm proud of it.
<
 

bri

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I thought you meant you wanted to check your brakes. I just had to get new front ones last week. Does anyone know how much that should cost? I'm trying to see if I got screwed.
 

LordKOTL

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It depends a lot on what you drive and how extensive the repair was. When I did my brakes last it cost well over $400 for parts alone (I did all of the work). Granted, that was Slotted/Dimpled rotors (Read more expensive) for all 4 wheels and upgraded pads (Read more expensive). In your case, Bri, you also have to figure in part markup for the mechanic, labor (probably between $75 and $150). For part markup, even if you're usuing run of the mill stock american break pads and shoes on a fairly common model, they will mark up some profit for them in the part cost. Euro/Japaense parts tend to be more expensive.



Labor, yeah. Highway robbery. It would be the same no matter where you go.



Ways they can gouge you is telling you that you need new rotors or drums when you can either get them resuraced again, and telling you that you need new calipers when you really don't. However, unless you know exactly what you're doing, the brakes are one part of a car you never chance with, so, unless you know how to tell if a caliper is bad, and if the Rotor/drum needs resurfacing (turning), it's best to just suck up the extra cost since brake failure always ends up badly.



P.S. for the record, plain old rotors for my car would have cost me about $130 rather than $200 Cquence rotors, and plain bargain basement organic pads would have cost me $45, Ceramic OEM pads would have cost me about $75, which again are much less than the near $200 for the EBC pads. And since about 2001, I've always done my own brakes so I don't know how much a shop will charge.



P.P.S. The dealer, as opposed to, hypothetically, Midas, would leave you bleeding from the anus in price even more so, so if you went there, I can see why you're worried about being screwed.
 

jakobeast

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The proper thing is to ignore them. You can only control the space between you and what is in front of you, and to the sides. In my CDL training the said by doing the brake check you will do 1 of 2 things: either cause an accident, which is bad for everyone, or piss off the driver behind you, and you don't know what that ****** is capable of.



That said, I usually try to pace a car in the other lane. Failing that, I just go the speed limit, or just a few under.
 

LordKOTL

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True, but the same goes both ways...they don't know what you're capable of.



For a sweetheart like, say, bri, it would be ill-advised. For a borderline psychotic with antisocial tendances, a proud misanthope, and carries a fire axe in his car which he affectionately nicknamed "Sparky"...
 

BiscuitintheBasket

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The proper thing is to ignore them. You can only control the space between you and what is in front of you, and to the sides. In my CDL training the said by doing the brake check you will do 1 of 2 things: either cause an accident, which is bad for everyone, or piss off the driver behind you, and you don't know what that ****** is capable of.



That said, I usually try to pace a car in the other lane. Failing that, I just go the speed limit, or just a few under.





Ditto for me and just not worth it.
 

Shantz My Pants

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If someone is really on my ass, and I'm in the right hand lane, I'll just tap the breaks for the visual effect. That's only on a rare occasion as I'm usually in the left hand lane passing, and then I move over for the speeders.
 

supraman

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True, but the same goes both ways...they don't know what you're capable of.



For a sweetheart like, say, bri, it would be ill-advised. For a borderline psychotic with antisocial tendances, a proud misanthope, and carries a fire axe in his car which he affectionately nicknamed "Sparky"...



I should put my hockey stick back in my car. Since yeah baseball bat vs Hockey stick, I have six foot of reach mother ******.
 

Sir Mike of Burbs

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Depends on how much of tools they are. I usually drive 7 over on side roads and such. So if you're passing me you're probably a dick. But if someone tailgated me while I'm going 10 over in 25-45 I usually just slam on the breaks till I'm going about 10. For a block or so. They get it after that.
 

LordKOTL

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I should put my hockey stick back in my car. Since yeah baseball bat vs Hockey stick, I have six foot of reach mother ******.

Honestly, I suggest everyone carry something that could be a makeshift weapon in their car that they, personally, know how to use and use well. Because really, you never know. So, if you are a good hockey playey and can take out someone's eyeball with the flick of the wrist, go for it!



Of course, don't try to get in trouble with the law by carrying something definitly illegal in your area, but legal things like hatchets, axes, bats, hockey sticks, and many garden tools can be used and use well to defend yourself--assuming you have the internal fortitude to eviscerate someone if needs be.
 

supraman

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Honestly, I suggest everyone carry something that could be a makeshift weapon in their car that they, personally, know how to use and use well. Because really, you never know. So, if you are a good hockey playey and can take out someone's eyeball with the flick of the wrist, go for it!



Of course, don't try to get in trouble with the law by carrying something definitly illegal in your area, but legal things like hatchets, axes, bats, hockey sticks, and many garden tools can be used and use well to defend yourself--assuming you have the internal fortitude to eviscerate someone if needs be.



Oh I know how to inflict damage with a hockey stick. I took Chris Simon's training camp.
 

bri

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It depends a lot on what you drive and how extensive the repair was. When I did my brakes last it cost well over $400 for parts alone (I did all of the work). Granted, that was Slotted/Dimpled rotors (Read more expensive) for all 4 wheels and upgraded pads (Read more expensive). In your case, Bri, you also have to figure in part markup for the mechanic, labor (probably between $75 and $150). For part markup, even if you're usuing run of the mill stock american break pads and shoes on a fairly common model, they will mark up some profit for them in the part cost. Euro/Japaense parts tend to be more expensive.



Labor, yeah. Highway robbery. It would be the same no matter where you go.



Ways they can gouge you is telling you that you need new rotors or drums when you can either get them resuraced again, and telling you that you need new calipers when you really don't. However, unless you know exactly what you're doing, the brakes are one part of a car you never chance with, so, unless you know how to tell if a caliper is bad, and if the Rotor/drum needs resurfacing (turning), it's best to just suck up the extra cost since brake failure always ends up badly.



P.S. for the record, plain old rotors for my car would have cost me about $130 rather than $200 Cquence rotors, and plain bargain basement organic pads would have cost me $45, Ceramic OEM pads would have cost me about $75, which again are much less than the near $200 for the EBC pads. And since about 2001, I've always done my own brakes so I don't know how much a shop will charge.



P.P.S. The dealer, as opposed to, hypothetically, Midas, would leave you bleeding from the anus in price even more so, so if you went there, I can see why you're worried about being screwed.







The receipt says:



Brake pads 60.00

Rotors 70.00

Labor 45.00

Misc Shop Supplies 5.00

Oil Filter 5.50

Oil 17.25

Oil Change Labor 5.50

Tax 10.65

_______

Total 218.90
 

supraman

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The receipt says:



Brake pads 60.00

Rotors 70.00

Labor 45.00

Misc Shop Supplies 5.00

Oil Filter 5.50

Oil 17.25

Oil Change Labor 5.50

Tax 10.65

_______

Total 218.90



That sounds about right.
 

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