Plumbing Help

[brett05]

I have a double vanity and I guess the easiest thing to do would be to tear apart the plumbing under the working sink to see why the failing sink is dripping. But I would rather for now have one working sink so I am not touching the working sink.

From this picture you can see the gray tail pipe leading to the white PVC P-Trap thru a locking (slip) nut and poly washer under the locking nut.

The sink is leaking from this locking nut. I tightened it up, no change. My thoughts were that the washer wore out. When I went to take a look I realized that the tail pipe and the p-trap really weren't connected at all. I mean the locking nut and washer really never touches the tail pipe so the pipe kinda just "hovers" in the p-trap. I have no clue how this hasn't leaked forever (sink is original to the house 12 years).

What am I missing? Any suggestions for me to take?

I did look at the working sink setup and it seems to be the same without me taking it apart and it appears that maybe there is a missing piece?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Crystallas]

This is a ridiculously easy job. Don't fear taking it apart, just use caution with the drain going into the wall. If you somehow manage to break that(which is hard to do) then you'll have to do some magic to fix it.

Minerals and cleaners will eat away at the gaskets. Those need to be replaced over time. Also invest in some plumbers putty if you're at the hardware store. Don't be a fool and buy PVC sealer. Then you'll never get those pipes apart(which they are supposed to come apart).

Just unscrew the p-trap and the PVC pipe going into the sink. Clean those off in the shower, change the gaskets and reassemble. If it still leaks, take the putty, roll it into little snakes that are quite a bit thinner than the gaskets and pack them into the INSIDE of the joint thread after the gasket area. That will complete the seal and keep it serviceable. The reason for the p-trap is to trap gas that could come back up the line and catch things like jewelry that drop down the drain. So don't assemble it back higher than necessary.

Poof, done. You'll be like... WTF that took less than 10 minutes to do.

 

[Burque]

it sounds like the tail piece isn't long enough. They sell extensions for the tailpiece, the only issue is that as close as it is to fitting currently you make have to trim and inch or two off the tailpiece to get the extension to fit.

***Before I went for the extension route I would put the nut and washer up on the grey pipe, push up the trap a bit (It will flex) and see if you can get the nut and washer to bite when you tighten them down. If you can catch the end of the grey pipe just tightening it back down should solve your problem without having to get an extension, or any parts for that matter.

It was probably not leaking because your drain was super new/clear a little build up over time could cause it to be a bit slower giving the water time to build and drip. Either that or it got bumped and knocked loose somehow. Most likely it was on the very end of the tailpiece and got bumped.

 

[Spunky Porkstacker]

So many plumbers here at ccs. who knew?

 

[Ares]

I like to make sure I always leave water running when I do plumbing work, so I can learn where the water comes out of.

 

[clonetrooper264]

I like to make sure I always leave water running when I do plumbing work, so I can learn where the water comes out of.

:thinking:

Seems legit

 

[Ares]

:thinking:

Seems legit

For future reference, the water comes out of the pipe that comes out of the wall.... don't hack it open with a hatchet.

 

[DC]

It's better to have someone pee in the sink bc if you look away or go temporarily blind, you'll be able to smell or taste it.

 

[Ares]

It's better to have someone pee in the sink bc if you look away or go temporarily blind, you'll be able to smell or taste it.

This is genius...

 

[truthbedamned]

I have built 2 homes and remodeled two others. When my kids call and say the toilet is backed up or the kitchen drain is clogged I pretend I am deaf. Plumbing sucks.

But this truly is a 30 minute job with one trip to the hardware store.

 

[Monster]

So many plumbers here at ccs. who knew?

It's really just owning a home.
I've fixed so much shit by watching YouTube.
Beats 45 an hour with a two hour minimum to watch a guy fix you're shit in 4 minutes.

 

[brett05]

This is a ridiculously easy job. Don't fear taking it apart, just use caution with the drain going into the wall. If you somehow manage to break that(which is hard to do) then you'll have to do some magic to fix it.

Minerals and cleaners will eat away at the gaskets. Those need to be replaced over time. Also invest in some plumbers putty if you're at the hardware store. Don't be a fool and buy PVC sealer. Then you'll never get those pipes apart(which they are supposed to come apart).

Just unscrew the p-trap and the PVC pipe going into the sink. Clean those off in the shower, change the gaskets and reassemble. If it still leaks, take the putty, roll it into little snakes that are quite a bit thinner than the gaskets and pack them into the INSIDE of the joint thread after the gasket area. That will complete the seal and keep it serviceable. The reason for the p-trap is to trap gas that could come back up the line and catch things like jewelry that drop down the drain. So don't assemble it back higher than necessary.

Poof, done. You'll be like... WTF that took less than 10 minutes to do.

it sounds like the tail piece isn't long enough. They sell extensions for the tailpiece, the only issue is that as close as it is to fitting currently you make have to trim and inch or two off the tailpiece to get the extension to fit.

***Before I went for the extension route I would put the nut and washer up on the grey pipe, push up the trap a bit (It will flex) and see if you can get the nut and washer to bite when you tighten them down. If you can catch the end of the grey pipe just tightening it back down should solve your problem without having to get an extension, or any parts for that matter.

It was probably not leaking because your drain was super new/clear a little build up over time could cause it to be a bit slower giving the water time to build and drip. Either that or it got bumped and knocked loose somehow. Most likely it was on the very end of the tailpiece and got bumped.

Not sure if I was clear but the tail pipe isn't anywhere close to being able to touch the poly or the PVC, I'd say the tail is a good 1/4 inch smaller than the PVC with the washer.

If I understand, perhaps the putty wore away?

I have cleaned all the pieces, but not tried the plumber putty into the poly ring yet. That's my next step, yes?

I can't look at it again until Sunday Night. I'll post an update. I might suck it up and tear apart the working sink just to see

 

[Spunky Porkstacker]

It's really just owning a home.
I've fixed so much shit by watching YouTube.
Beats 45 an hour with a two hour minimum to watch a guy fix you're shit in 4 minutes.

I was jk, plumbing is one thing that most homeowners are able to do and become fairly good at. I have some old pipes in my basement that are old, and get a buildup on the inside from hard water slowing water flow. It's a straight shot so I'm going to attempt to replace them with copper. It should be hard to **** up, lol. Basically getting the right length and sweating pipes.

45 seems pretty cheap I think its about double that per hour in the Chicago area.

 

[Burque]

Not sure if I was clear but the tail pipe isn't anywhere close to being able to touch the poly or the PVC, I'd say the tail is a good 1/4 inch smaller than the PVC with the washer.

If I understand, perhaps the putty wore away?

I have cleaned all the pieces, but not tried the plumber putty into the poly ring yet. That's my next step, yes?

I can't look at it again until Sunday Night. I'll post an update. I might suck it up and tear apart the working sink just to see

I think I misunderstood. The tailpiece goes into the p trap, but it is smaller significantly in circumference. so no matter how much you tighten the nut the tailpiece is still loose.

If that is the case you need to go to the hardware store and they will have the correct washer. The washer you have in there currently is too thin. They make thicker ones specifically for those thinner tailpieces. Take the washer you have with you and tell the guy in the plumbing dept that you need a thicker one for a sink tailpiece, if they have half a brane they will know what you are talking about and get you the right piece for less than a dollar. No plumbers putty needed.

 

[Ares]

Ares Plumbing tip for the week... if your toilet is flushing weird, don't pry it out of the floor with a crowbar.... that does not alleviate the problem.

 

[Spunky Porkstacker]

Shit runs down hill and always wash your hands after doing any jobs related to poo.

 

[Tater]

 

[clonetrooper264]

:cringe:

 

[didshereallysaythat]

On Halloween this past year, I had to repair our garbage disposal. I am not a handyman so if this is an easy job, so be it. But it was the biggest pain in the ass. The motor had burned out because a chicken wing went down and got stuck which caused the blades to jam. The smell to remove that thing from the pipes was the worst. That and having kids ring the doorbell every minute made it aggravating.

 

[Monster]

I've grown to hate fire alarms. Why the **** do they always start that annoying low battery chirp at 2AM?
Is there something built in so the can't start that shit at noon?