Okay, my $.02 on this thread...
The octane debate:
Higher levels of octane don't necessarily relate to better performance. "Octane" is basically a hydrocarbon chain of 8 carbon atoms. It's desirable because it resists spontaeously cobusting at high pressures as opposed to heptane (a 7-carbon atom long hydrocarbon chain). The octane rating merely states that, in the case of 87 octane, that the fuel resists spontaneously combusting (resists knock), the same as a pure fuel of 87% octane and 13% heptane.
What does this mean to the end user? Basically, there is no added performance gain, but, if your engine has high internal pressure (forced induction like a supercharger or a turbocharger, or has high compression), it will prevent knocking (premature fuel combustion). As such, you're really gaining nothing running anything over what your owner's manual says unless you tune your vehicle to run on a higher octane, you run a stroker kit, or and forced induction of some sort; and most of that is byond the capabilities of the average Joe.
Oil Changes:
It's not always necessary to change at 3000 mile intervals, regardless of whether you're running dino oil or techno lube (synthetic). However, the only think that more frequent oil changes hurt is the weigh of your wallet--you will never hurt anything by changing your oil too soon. Now, running syntheti does not automaticall extend the life of oil changes. Be it Dino oil or techno lube, it will likley not break down and fail to lubricate in under 10,000 miles. However, what oil does o is actr as a detergent and clean out combustion byproducts, small metal particles, and carbon and soot from the normal running of the engine. The oil can only suspend so much gunk and the filter can only trap so much gunk. Rule of Thumb: always follow the manual based on your driving style. If you have a DIC or other stock oil life meter--follow it.
As for conventional vs. synthetic, either will work. If you want to take extra care of your car synthetic is defintily worth the extra cost IMHO.
As for the best way to work under your car, ramps are good for oil changes and other simple undercar repairs. However, anything suspension-related, like brakes, CV axles, etc, you'll have to jack your car up. Always use jackstands for that--never a jack on its own.
BHC: one of the Slovak requirements to get your driver's license is to demonstrate that you know basic repairs and maintenence to your car (like chaning a flat tire or an oil change). I think this should be a requirement here as well. Personally, I like working on my own car. Not only is there a sense of accomplishment, but knowing more about the car inside and out, I can tellearly when something is wrong and get it fixed before something goes boom.
Oh, and my car?
Old pic of her, main change is the headlights have been changed to Eagle Eyes projectos/Halos with the black bezel.
