DIY Projects

Spunky Porkstacker

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Most are wrong. Most of those people have no idea what they're doing. Fucking morons.

I disagree, I've gotten some good stuff from there. I have seen some terrible vids by some that were complete idiots.
 

Burque

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Not DIY, but I had a foundation repair done last week.

House was built in the 40's and it was time to get a few places correct that were sinking. Helical Piers.

Feel like I just got nut punched with the bill, but it is done and now I can move on to some other remodeling projects that are on the list.
 

brett05

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I am sure this is easy for many of you, but this was my first. My brother-in law coached me, but I did it all by myself. I changed my front brake pads. :)
 

brett05

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Congrats. It's a money saver doing it yourself.

For real. the pads cost me $55. Now yes, I spent another $60 on a jack, jack stands, and some brake fluid, but i'll keep using that stuff for both the cars. Next up, oil change.
 

Tater

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For real. the pads cost me $55. Now yes, I spent another $60 on a jack, jack stands, and some brake fluid, but i'll keep using that stuff for both the cars. Next up, oil change.


post-25179-you-can-do-it-gif-Waterboy-Img-JC2V.gif
 

Gustavus Adolphus

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Need design help on constructing a drawbridge. Asking for a friend.
 

Burque

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Need design help on constructing a drawbridge. Asking for a friend.

Uhhmmm are we talking a foot bridge???


As a side note, if your moat is big enough your house will not get attacked but you might need a draw bridge big enough for your hummer, but it will be SO worth it!
 

Burque

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Tearing out a bathroom this weekend!!! YAY Sledge Hammers!

Not sure how far I will get, but the goal is tear it out and put it back in the next two weeks. I have some before pics, but I will take a few more and take some pics along the way as I remember.


Also two weekends ago we sanded and refinished the outside wood on our front porch area, was needed badly, didn't like the color that much at first, but it is growing on me. Also need to repaint all the other eves etc back to white and the garage to white as well, that is a future project though. This was just sand and tinted poly.
 

Issues

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Been busy replacing doors and windows on my house.
Think the cold is putting an end to that
 

Crystallas

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Sealed my windows tonight.

I don't like the cellophane kits(clear plastic and tape). They work like shit and if you get a heat wave for two days between a few bitter cold days, it means opening a window is simply a pain in the ass.

Because my windows are wood with vinyl insulation, steel guides, and silicone seal (no rubber), I just used some petroleum jelly and packed it in the corners. Big winner, because recaulking when it's this cold and windy is still going to push a draft since it doesn't settle right. Was thinking silicone lube too, but I had no time to go out and buy some. The petroleum jelly works brilliantly. So wanted to pass that on. just don't use it with rubber because it will absorb into any rubber and that causes premature wear.
 

Tater

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I hate those window kits. Tried one on the sliding glass doors....debacle.
 

Ares

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I hate those window kits. Tried one on the sliding glass doors....debacle.

I found them to work ok... just need to get that double sided tape right.
 

KoreanBear

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I tried taking out the bath tub drain last week because it's kind of corroded.
The + in the center of it broke off and now I'm scared to even touch it.
Bar-Sink-Bathtub-Drain-Strainer.jpg
[/IMG]
What happens when it keeps on corroding, anyone know?
The drain plug metal itself is corroded not the tub.
 

Tater

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I tried taking out the bath tub drain last week because it's kind of corroded.
The + in the center of it broke off and now I'm scared to even touch it.

What happens when it keeps on corroding, anyone know?
The drain plug metal itself is corroded not the tub.

I have the same issue here. Haven't looked in to a solution yet though, plumbing scares me. Plus I'm afraid the whole tub will need to be replaced to fix it.
 

KoreanBear

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I have the same issue here. Haven't looked in to a solution yet though, plumbing scares me. Plus I'm afraid the whole tub will need to be replaced to fix it.

There are tools to remove it when the + breaks, but you sort of need to hammer the tool into the drain.
I'm worried that hammering will crack the piping under the tub...
I went to a plumbing shop and they suggested I glue a new face on the corroded one. They had a kit.
 

Tater

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There are tools to remove it when the + breaks, but you sort of need to hammer the tool into the drain.
I'm worried that hammering will crack the piping under the tub...
I went to a plumbing shop and they suggested I glue a new face on the corroded one. They had a kit.

Well I hope it works out for you, please do post results.
 

Crystallas

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Oxidation on copper is normal. So is nickel plating wearing off and exposing brass parts. Replacing any of it is just a matter of how much you're willing to do and spend. 19/20 times it's removable without removing the tub. The only [common] reason you would need to remove the tub, is if the bathtub was retrofitted into a house with some weird offset to the drain, and doing it from the tub could break the seal with the offset itself.

Just get the right tool to remove the drain flange, maybe read a how-to/watch a YT video and determine if it's in your skill range. Don't skip the plumbers putty.

Personally, I would have ignored that until spring, when it's not the hassle of something going wrong, and having to expose the wall insulation/cracking cold tiles in case you need to pull the tub out. Use a rubber drain plug for the time being.
 

airtime143

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There are tools to remove it when the + breaks, but you sort of need to hammer the tool into the drain.
I'm worried that hammering will crack the piping under the tub...
I went to a plumbing shop and they suggested I glue a new face on the corroded one. They had a kit.

what is underneath the tub? Finished basement or ceiling?
Changing the entire assembly is easy as hell if it is exposed- that metal ring should not be connected to the tub itself, just pressure fit with a back nut and gasket (at least that is what I have had to deal with).
if it is exposed and not drywalled over, I would just run to menards and replace the whole setup for 20 bucks in 20 minutes.
Most drain plumbing is slip joint and easy to work with.

If it is walled up, and you dont fill the tub frequently, spend a couple bucks on a drain screen and use a rubber stopper when filling the tub and call it done.
 

KoreanBear

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what is underneath the tub? Finished basement or ceiling?
Changing the entire assembly is easy as hell if it is exposed- that metal ring should not be connected to the tub itself, just pressure fit with a back nut and gasket (at least that is what I have had to deal with).
if it is exposed and not drywalled over, I would just run to menards and replace the whole setup for 20 bucks in 20 minutes.
Most drain plumbing is slip joint and easy to work with.

If it is walled up, and you dont fill the tub frequently, spend a couple bucks on a drain screen and use a rubber stopper when filling the tub and call it done.

That's what I'm doing now.
Under the tub is the furnace with ceiling on top...
I'm just eyeing the corrosion for now, and probably gonna just settle with gluing a new fascia of the drain on top of the corroded one.
 

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