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canucklehead

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Shouldn't it be the higher the better? LCD TV's are usually 60Hz, but 100Hz and more are probably more common nowadays. I think you are talking about response time, in which case the lower the better. Lower response time means less artifacts and ghosting.

sorry, yeah respoonce time needs to be low
<




Refresh rate needs to be high
 

MassHavoc

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Shouldn't it be the higher the better? LCD TV's are usually 60Hz, but 100Hz and more are probably more common nowadays. I think you are talking about response time, in which case the lower the better. Lower response time means less artifacts and ghosting.



Yes, and for his purposes at that size, he doesn't really need anything more than 720p. I don't think he'll be able to tell the difference. Stu, just go into the store, find a good 720p 120mhz tv. (I like Samsung) and haggle the shit out of the price. Take it home, and don't give it a second though. I spent years waiting and waiting and trying to find my tv, till I finally said **** it, found one I liked and went out and got it. Don't know how I lived with a 20 inch sony for 10 years as my main tv.
 

MassHavoc

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NICE Very helpful, you're not so bad for a Nucks fan!



My question is... is it the TV that makes the programs in HD automatically?



I just need to know what exactly I need to make sure programs are in HD and my Xbox runs HD for Netflix etc... I understand that I will only need ONE HDMI cable to make sure my Xbox runs smoothly, but what about just sporting events etc? Don't want to get assrammed by salesmen trying to sell me stuff I don't need.



I feel like such a moron on this stuff because I've never really bothered with anything nice when it comes to electronics.



The thing providing the picture is what makes it HD (i.e. the xbox, cable box, antenna, ect.) You tv receives it. That's why you can have different quality on different devices because some things output at a higher level.
 

LordKOTL

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Okay, here's my synopsis:



ALWAYS shop around online and otherwise. Compare total cost (shipping included) with sourcing it locally. And always take a look at a model locally.



There's only like 3 comanies that *actually* make the LCD panels. As such, my bro's old Philips 42", My friend's 40" Dynex, and my 46" Sony look very close to the same. Ditto on my dad's 46" Samsung and his 32" LG.



When it comes to size vs. 720p/1080p, the big questions to ask are "how far away is the TV", and "how good is my eyesight." For my dad and his g/f, both with questionable eyesight, their 32" lcd for the bedroom, about 10-12' away max, 720p looked just fine to them. For me (who has eyes like a haw), i could tell the difference, but why would they shell out more for something they couldn't even tell the difference?



As for types of cables--as a general rule, HDMI is the best you can have since it carries both audio and video. One cable carries the whole digital signal. Basically, I think with your setup, if you're not running it through a receiver, is to connect the cable box's HDMI out with one of the TV's HDMI in, and the 360's HDMI out wth another of the TV's HDMI in.
 

canucklehead

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NICE Very helpful, you're not so bad for a Nucks fan!



My question is... is it the TV that makes the programs in HD automatically?



I just need to know what exactly I need to make sure programs are in HD and my Xbox runs HD for Netflix etc... I understand that I will only need ONE HDMI cable to make sure my Xbox runs smoothly, but what about just sporting events etc? Don't want to get assrammed by salesmen trying to sell me stuff I don't need.



I feel like such a moron on this stuff because I've never really bothered with anything nice when it comes to electronics.

you will need a HDMI cable from the x-box to the TV, and one from the receiver to the TV. You could also use component cables, but the audio will suffer. The TV doesn't automatically make everything HD unless it has an upconverter built in. The source of the signal needs to be HD for it to be displayed as HD. Standard TV programs are broadcast in the SD resolution (standard definition). These will always be Standard definition, unless they are upconverted (by the source, or the TV). Many DVD/Blu-ray players nowadays do this for you, HD channels broadcast with a much higher resolution than SD (which is what HD is), and HD TV's allow this higher resolution to be shown.
 

MassHavoc

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you will need a HDMI cable from the x-box to the TV, and one from the receiver to the TV, though the Coaxial should work properly for HD as well, if that's how it's connected right now. You could also use component cables, but the audio will suffer. The TV doesn't automatically make everything HD unless it has an upconverter built in. The source of the signal needs to be HD for it to be displayed as HD. Standard TV programs are broadcast in the SD resolution (standard definition). These will always be Standard definition, unless they are upconverted (by the source, or the TV). Many DVD/Blu-ray players nowadays do this for you, HD channels broadcast with a much higher resolution than SD (which is what HD is), and HD TV's allow this higher resolution to be shown.



Component doesn't carry audio, you would need a separate, preferably optical, cable for that. Best case scenario is coaxil into the back of your cable/sat. reciever. and an HDMI from there to your tv. and a HDMI from your Xbox to your TV. Unless you have a stereo system you hook up as well for movies and such, then you'll need another cable.
 

canucklehead

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Component doesn't carry audio, you would need a separate, preferably optical, cable for that. Best case scenario is coaxil into the back of your cable/sat. reciever. and an HDMI from there to your tv. and a HDMI from your Xbox to your TV. Unless you have a stereo system you hook up as well for movies and such, then you'll need another cable.

most component cables come with the standard R/W stereo for the audio, which flat out sucks.
 

bubbleheadchief

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Okay, here's my synopsis:



ALWAYS shop around online and otherwise. Compare total cost (shipping included) with sourcing it locally. And always take a look at a model locally.



There's only like 3 comanies that *actually* make the LCD panels. As such, my bro's old Philips 42", My friend's 40" Dynex, and my 46" Sony look very close to the same. Ditto on my dad's 46" Samsung and his 32" LG.



When it comes to size vs. 720p/1080p, the big questions to ask are "how far away is the TV", and "how good is my eyesight." For my dad and his g/f, both with questionable eyesight, their 32" lcd for the bedroom, about 10-12' away max, 720p looked just fine to them. For me (who has eyes like a haw), i could tell the difference, but why would they shell out more for something they couldn't even tell the difference?



As for types of cables--as a general rule, HDMI is the best you can have since it carries both audio and video. One cable carries the whole digital signal. Basically, I think with your setup, if you're not running it through a receiver, is to connect the cable box's HDMI out with one of the TV's HDMI in, and the 360's HDMI out wth another of the TV's HDMI in.

We've had a discussion about this before haven't we, the whole 720/1080p difference? That unless the individual is sitting within 6' of the TV that the human eye can't distinguiish the difference? If the whole 3d revolution takes off that may change....but until then nope.
 

canucklehead

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We've had a discussion about this before haven't we, the whole 720/1080p difference? That unless the individual is sitting within 6' of the TV that the human eye can't distinguiish the difference? If the whole 3d revolution takes off that may change....but until then nope.

if your TV starts getting into the 50" range or higher you can notice a difference from the couch.
 

Chief Walking Stick

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Crap just checked my cable box....



B2C_AOP_DCH70_rear_alt_US_EN.png




Looks like I'd have to upgrade my box and pay more monthly doesn't it?



If I still shell out the money for the HDTV will the picture look better than a regular flatscreen TV albeit not in HD because of the receiver?
 

canucklehead

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Crap just checked my cable box....



B2C_AOP_DCH70_rear_alt_US_EN.png




Looks like I'd have to upgrade my box and pay more monthly doesn't it?



If I still shell out the money for the HDTV will the picture look better than a regular flatscreen TV albeit not in HD because of the receiver?

it will potentially look worse, since the crappyness of the SD shows will be exaggerated, though the colours should look better. and if you want HD shows you're going to have to upgrade that box.
 

MassHavoc

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We've had a discussion about this before haven't we, the whole 720/1080p difference? That unless the individual is sitting within 6' of the TV that the human eye can't distinguiish the difference? If the whole 3d revolution takes off that may change....but until then nope.



Actually, it's more about the size of the tv really. The 720-1080 is the number of lines (horizontal scan). so on a smaller tv they are not as spread out. so its not as noticeable. anything over about 32 is going to be a big enough size that the extra lines are going to be needed. P vs. I is just progressive scan vs. interlaced. Progressive is crisper and clearer because it presents the whole picture at once but needs a higher refresh rate, where as interlace eventually puts half the picture up at a time interlocked within itself. again, most people can't tell the difference.
 

LordKOTL

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Nope, but my vision is considerably better than 20/20. So, yes, either through actual acuity, or just a placebo effect, I can tell the difference between 720 and 1080 on a 32" tv from about 15' out.



Although I wouldn't put it past my mind to trick me and make me think that I can see a difference:).



The point of what I said was just don't pay for something that you won't get value out of.
 

canucklehead

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Actually, it's more about the size of the tv really. The 720-1080 is the number of lines (horizontal scan). so on a smaller tv they are not as spread out. so its not as noticeable. anything over about 32 is going to be a big enough size that the extra lines are going to be needed. P vs. I is just progressive scan vs. interlaced. Progressive is crisper and clearer because it presents the whole picture at once but needs a higher refresh rate, where as interlace eventually puts half the picture up at a time interlocked within itself. again, most people can't tell the difference.

1080P on something smaller than a 40" will be nearly indistinguishable from 780P to a normal person sitting on their couch watching TV. at 50" it becomes pretty apparent, and worse as it gets larger.
 

TSD

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Crap just checked my cable box....



B2C_AOP_DCH70_rear_alt_US_EN.png




Looks like I'd have to upgrade my box and pay more monthly doesn't it?



If I still shell out the money for the HDTV will the picture look better than a regular flatscreen TV albeit not in HD because of the receiver?





I dont think it costs that much for the HD box. mine is like 5 bucks a month. ASK for one with an HDMI hookup. If you dont they will give you one only with component hookups.
 

Pez68

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www.newegg.com



Free shipping, no tax. You will NOT find a television cheaper in a store than you will get it for on newegg, unless it is open box. You can also get the CHEAP HDMI cables there, probably half what you will find in a store. I will never buy electronics in a store again. I'll go there to check out models I'm looking at, but I won't buy them there. They are usually more expensive, plus, you pay tax.



For the cable box, just go to your local Comcast office, give them your old box, tell them you want HD service, and ask them for an HD box with an HDMI output. As simple as that.



http://www.avsforum.com/ is also an excellent resource for checking out televisions before you buy them.
 

the canadian dream

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Get a cardboard box cut out a square in the front. Draw some knobs on it. Get your friends to sit in it and put on a show for you.



Doesn't get more economical than that.





You're welcome.
 

R K

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Free shipping, no tax. You will NOT find a television cheaper in a store than you will get it for on newegg, unless it is open box. You can also get the CHEAP HDMI cables there, probably half what you will find in a store. I will never buy electronics in a store again. I'll go there to check out models I'm looking at, but I won't buy them there. They are usually more expensive, plus, you pay tax.



For the cable box, just go to your local Comcast office, give them your old box, tell them you want HD service, and ask them for an HD box with an HDMI output. As simple as that.



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889187165





The problem with NewEgg is expect absolutely NO customer service. Hope and pray you don't have a problem.





TCD you should be able to do some research, obtain a quote from a few different places, such as EggHead, Abt, Provantage (an Ingram subsidiary), then take the quote local. Most places will match it these days to get the sale. That way when and if there is a problem you have a "throat to choke" so to speak. Or at least someone close to handle the warranty and service.



HDMI you can find a Belkin and or Cables to Go brand all over for cheap. And most of the "off" brands are still MFR'd by the big boys either way. They just distribute them under another brand.



I absolutely love my Panasonic Plasma. One of the best electronics purchases I've ever made. At one point Panasonic and JVC were the top two brands. JVC being the best rated but also much more expensive. By 20% or more for almost the same product, just different brand names.
 
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