Woodworking

[Omeletpants]

They grant the discount so you'll go away.

and you pay full price like a life loser

 

[Leomaz]

Sorry, that you are afraid of negotiating purchase. Pussy

What the hell are you even trying to say?
you keep claiming you have a college education but you just sounds stupid as hell!

you just can’t fool anybody

 

[Omeletpants]

What the hell are you even trying to say?
you keep claiming you have a college education but you just sounds stupid as hell!

you just can’t fool anybody

Jelly that you flip a hammer for a living and have zero negotiating skills

 

[TL1961]

and you pay full price like a life loser

Yep. I don’t try to get a dime off a can of soup while others are backed up in line waiting to check out.

 

[JimAKABlkhwks918]

Measure twice cut once...that sounds simplistic but its the best advice there is

On that note: measuring is a little art within itself...tape measures are good for rough measurements, but I would suggest you get a good stick rule for precision. Use a sharp regular pencil, too, not that stupid flat "carpenter" pencil. Put a crank pencil sharpener up in your shop and sharpen your pencil often. Be precise; try to measure down to 1/16ths and 1/32nds if you can, the more precise you discipline yourself to be, the less you'll be off if your cuts aren't precise. Remember that whatever you cut, you lose a blade width... you can't mark out four cuts from a board all at exact the same measurement...you could lose an 1/8" per cut, and the fourth board will be 3/8" short; mark them each one at a time.
I got slightly obsessed with measuring learning to bend conduit properly...there is some math that requires a lot of precision in terms of not only the calculation, but more importantly the layout to get the bends all correct...small (1/2"-1") conduit has some wiggle room for error correction if you mess up, but 2-1/2" and up is one and done....at $100 per 10 ft. stick of 4", you don't stay employed long by scrapping one of every 4 you bend.
As a wise old timer told me decades ago: it's you. Don't doubt Pythagoras; he figured this shit out thousands of years ago: you either did the math wrong, measured wrong, laid it out wrong, or bent to the wrong degree...don't doubt the math!

 

[blkwdw13]

On that note: measuring is a little art within itself...tape measures are good for rough measurements, but I would suggest you get a good stick rule for precision. Use a sharp regular pencil, too, not that stupid flat "carpenter" pencil. Put a crank pencil sharpener up in your shop and sharpen your pencil often. Be precise; try to measure down to 1/16ths and 1/32nds if you can, the more precise you discipline yourself to be, the less you'll be off if your cuts aren't precise. Remember that whatever you cut, you lose a blade width... you can't mark out four cuts from a board all at exact the same measurement...you could lose an 1/8" per cut, and the fourth board will be 3/8" short; mark them each one at a time.
I got slightly obsessed with measuring learning to bend conduit properly...there is some math that requires a lot of precision in terms of not only the calculation, but more importantly the layout to get the bends all correct...small (1/2"-1") conduit has some wiggle room for error correction if you mess up, but 2-1/2" and up is one and done....at $100 per 10 ft. stick of 4", you don't stay employed long by scrapping one of every 4 you bend.
As a wise old timer told me decades ago: it's you. Don't doubt Pythagoras; he figured this shit out thousands of years ago: you either did the math wrong, measured wrong, laid it out wrong, or bent to the wrong degree...don't doubt the math!

This right here is why I have stops on my saw tables, measure accurately once setup up the stop and cut that same length many times over.

 

[truthbedamned]

This right here is why I have stops on my saw tables, measure accurately once setup up the stop and cut that same length many times over.

I do that as well. And I also use scrap lumber to get my stop set up properly before cutting a piece of walnut or mahogany. Half my shop is nothing but jigs and shit I make just to make my stuff work better.

And one other hint. When you go looking for projects to do on the internet be aware that not EVERYTHING is made with a Kreg jig and Ryobi tools. Even though I love my Kreg jig.

 

[Omeletpants]

This guy is a great finish carpenter. Lots of videos of his intricate work. Lomax is a rough carpenter which takes much less skill

 

[Omeletpants]

Here is a list of all his videos

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYU9ctqfZCDdagNPfEzL6dg

 

[Burque]

I do that as well. And I also use scrap lumber to get my stop set up properly before cutting a piece of walnut or mahogany. Half my shop is nothing but jigs and shit I make just to make my stuff work better.

And one other hint. When you go looking for projects to do on the internet be aware that not EVERYTHING is made with a Kreg jig and Ryobi tools. Even though I love my Kreg jig.

Rando question.

With wood being so expensive to purchase, would it ever be worth it to buy an old dresser or something that was made with expensive wood that someone is simply offloading second hand, take it apart, and reuse the wood in a new application?

 

[nvanprooyen]

I do that as well. And I also use scrap lumber to get my stop set up properly before cutting a piece of walnut or mahogany. Half my shop is nothing but jigs and shit I make just to make my stuff work better.

And one other hint. When you go looking for projects to do on the internet be aware that not EVERYTHING is made with a Kreg jig and Ryobi tools. Even though I love my Kreg jig.

I have seen that Kreg pocket hole jig pop up a ton. I bought one, lol.

 

[Burque]

I have seen that Kreg pocket hole jig pop up a ton. I bought one, lol.

I have been wanting one of those for awhile now. All I need is the slightest reason to own one and I will have one.

 

[truthbedamned]

I have been wanting one of those for awhile now. All I need is the slightest reason to own one and I will have one.

I have seen that Kreg pocket hole jig pop up a ton. I bought one, lol.

I use mine ALOT. But you see people putting together farmhouse tables and shit with them. In fact you can find videos and plans from people attaching breadboard ends to tables with them and that is a huge no no because the wood has to be able to move. Do that and I can guarantee you they will split. I used them on my first table and that was it. Much easier to use a biscuit joiner and you don't have 150 holes on the bottom of your table top. However Kreg is perfect for making door frames....etc. I hope you bought the 99 dollar kit as that is the way to go.

And don't believe any of the DIY plans from sites like shanty chic and anna white. 99 percent of them have something wrong with the plans or a wrong cut list. Here is a perfect example.

Golf Ball Display Case

This golf ball display case is the perfect handmade gift! It measures 18 1/2

www.buildsomething.com

That is the case I am building now. That is not the correct way to do shelves and her cut list is way off. She doesn't even show you the top and bottom of it. Look at step 4. So I use the picture and some of the measurements and then just wing it. One bonus I have is a son who teaches math. When I can't figure an angle out or dividing measurements I text him and get an answer......lol

 

[truthbedamned]

Rando question.

With wood being so expensive to purchase, would it ever be worth it to buy an old dresser or something that was made with expensive wood that someone is simply offloading second hand, take it apart, and reuse the wood in a new application?

Not me. To much work getting the old finishes off and getting it apart . And it is very rare to find solid pieces anymore. If it is solid.....keep it....lol. I have had a solid maple dropleaf table of my parents for about 45 years. Looked like crap and didn't go with my house anymore so I was going to take it to the dump. Then I looked up how much a solid maple dropleaf table cost. Anywhere between 1500.00 and 3k. So I refinished it and it now is in my office holding my printer and tv.

When you buy a piece of hardwood it is usually finished on 3 sides and you have to square it and plane it down to 3/4 inch. You start planing a dresser top you salvaged and it quickly becomes less than 3/4 which is not good except for specific projects calling for less than 3/4.

 

[nvanprooyen]

I use mine ALOT. But you see people putting together farmhouse tables and shit with them. In fact you can find videos and plans from people attaching breadboard ends to tables with them and that is a huge no no because the wood has to be able to move. Do that and I can guarantee you they will split. I used them on my first table and that was it. Much easier to use a biscuit joiner and you don't have 150 holes on the bottom of your table top. However Kreg is perfect for making door frames....etc. I hope you bought the 99 dollar kit as that is the way to go.

And don't believe any of the DIY plans from sites like shanty chic and anna white. 99 percent of them have something wrong with the plans or a wrong cut list. Here is a perfect example.

Golf Ball Display Case

This golf ball display case is the perfect handmade gift! It measures 18 1/2

www.buildsomething.com

That is the case I am building now. That is not the correct way to do shelves and her cut list is way off. She doesn't even show you the top and bottom of it. Look at step 4. So I use the picture and some of the measurements and then just wing it. One bonus I have is a son who teaches math. When I can't figure an angle out or dividing measurements I text him and get an answer......lol

I bought the $99 dollar one on sale for $79. It looks like you can detach the jig and use it like the $40 one for tighter spaces. For another $40 bucks, it seemed like a no brainer. Still in the box on my workbench though. Spent most of the weekend cleaning and organizing. Look at all this extra time I have due to the Bears sucking ass!

 

[truthbedamned]

I bought the $99 dollar one on sale for $79. It looks like you can detach the jig and use it like the $40 one for tighter spaces. For another $40 bucks, it seemed like a no brainer. Still in the box on my workbench though. Spent most of the weekend cleaning and organizing. Look at all this extra time I have due to the Bears sucking ass!

Good job. Make sure you print out the specs on which screws to use at what depth. I messed up when I started my daughters farmhouse table and used the wrong screws at the wrong depth. Felt pretty stupid when I turned the top over and there were like 150 screws sticking through the top. Thankfully I was alone and no one will ever know.

Spare time....Bear suck and covid. Can we have less hours in the day?

 

[Omeletpants]

I use mine ALOT. But you see people putting together farmhouse tables and shit with them. In fact you can find videos and plans from people attaching breadboard ends to tables with them and that is a huge no no because the wood has to be able to move. Do that and I can guarantee you they will split. I used them on my first table and that was it. Much easier to use a biscuit joiner and you don't have 150 holes on the bottom of your table top. However Kreg is perfect for making door frames....etc. I hope you bought the 99 dollar kit as that is the way to go.

And don't believe any of the DIY plans from sites like shanty chic and anna white. 99 percent of them have something wrong with the plans or a wrong cut list. Here is a perfect example.

Golf Ball Display Case

This golf ball display case is the perfect handmade gift! It measures 18 1/2

www.buildsomething.com

That is the case I am building now. That is not the correct way to do shelves and her cut list is way off. She doesn't even show you the top and bottom of it. Look at step 4. So I use the picture and some of the measurements and then just wing it. One bonus I have is a son who teaches math. When I can't figure an angle out or dividing measurements I text him and get an answer......lol

I have 2 golf ball cases that hold about 80 balls each and they are full of courses I have played

 

[blkwdw13]

Not me. To much work getting the old finishes off and getting it apart . And it is very rare to find solid pieces anymore. If it is solid.....keep it....lol. I have had a solid maple dropleaf table of my parents for about 45 years. Looked like crap and didn't go with my house anymore so I was going to take it to the dump. Then I looked up how much a solid maple dropleaf table cost. Anywhere between 1500.00 and 3k. So I refinished it and it now is in my office holding my printer and tv.

When you buy a piece of hardwood it is usually finished on 3 sides and you have to square it and plane it down to 3/4 inch. You start planing a dresser top you salvaged and it quickly becomes less than 3/4 which is not good except for specific projects calling for less than 3/4.

I used to use my Kreg a lot also, now I glue and biscuit join almost everything. Eventually I'll get a domino joiner.

 

[truthbedamned]

I used to use my Kreg a lot also, now I glue and biscuit join almost everything. Eventually I'll get a domino joiner.

So will I. Just as soon as Festool's copyright expires and someone makes one that is actually affordable.

 

[Crystallas]

I'm sure Crystallas is a master carpenter.

I mastered living in your head rent free. I can master anything!

Every home owner should have some carpentry under their belt. It's hard to avoid.

The only wood thing I made in my house are the open web floor joists(technically trusses). I cheat like most people, use pocket jigs(like the kregs) and sometimes dowels because they are also easy. Even cheated on the joists, using steel frame and ties throughout.